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Thursday 24 April 2014

Mango Spain Clothing Specialists

Clothing Retailing - UK - M

ango


Mango is one of Spain largest clothing specialists and has also built up a sizeable international business in Europe, Asia and the Americas. Mango predominantly targets women aged 18 to 30 with a fashionable and sophisticated offer. Recently, the group has expanded into menswear and it has also launched a new affordable sub-range in reaction to the weaker consumer climate. This profile focuses on Mango’s UK activities, but we have also provided some coverage of the group as a whole to give some context.After several years of falling market share, 2008 saw a rise, which was mostly achieved on the back of increased store numbers.


Strategic evaluation
Multi-brand strategy

Rival Spanish clothing retailer Inditex has long served the market through a variety of fascias and it looks like Mango may choose to adopt this strategy as well. In 2008, the group launched a standalone store dedicated to its menswear range (itself also newly launched in 2008) as well Mango Touch – a dedicated accessories boutique, which has launched in Spain and several other countries such as France, Romania and Russia, but not the UK. The company has also hinted that it may launch a chain that targets younger shoppers.

The multi-brand strategy makes sense as the new fascias could help sustain sales growth in Mango’s more mature operations in Western Europe. However, Mango may well choose to expand through any new concepts in Spain or markets closer to home, rather than in the competitive retail scene of the UK.

Further expansion

Mango has also continued to expand its core Mango-branded stores, particularly in international markets, adding around 100 stores a year on average. Despite the tougher economic climate, it appears that the company will not slow the pace of expansion. The company has said it plans to invest €100 million over the coming years, of which €85 million has been earmarked for new outlets as well as the refurbishment of existing stores.

However, we wonder whether it would perhaps be a wiser idea to build up critical mass in its existing markets rather than to continue jumping into new markets. A more focused approach would allow it to invest more money in the markets with the greatest potential. Given the relatively lacklustre performance of Mango in the UK, however, it is doubtful whether it would chose to do so in the UK.

In tune with the economy

Mango has admitted that the global recession has led to sales declines in early 2009 in markets such as Spain, Ireland, the UK and Russia. Consumers have been cutting back on their spending, particularly on discretionary items such as clothing, but Mango has tried to combat this by launching Think Up, an affordable low-cost fashion range. The range will feature within the core collection – pieces can be identified through a Think Up tag. According to the company, its shoppers shouldn’t have to give up on “life’s little treats” and the range seems like a good idea to attract customers during these challenging times.

Recent history
2005
International sales reached 75% of total group sales.
2006
Expansion into Kenya, Kosovo, South Africa and Syria.
2007
Creates Board of Directors, chaired by Isak and Nahman Andic.
2008
Announces plans to move into Algeria, Belarus and Georgia as well as Iraq and Iran. Launches menswear range and establishes first standalone menswear store in Spain. Launches Mango Touch, a standalone accessories boutique.
2009
Launches Think Up, an affordable clothing line.


Financial performance
              Mango is a private company and as such the financial information it releases is limited.
              In 2008, the company saw an 8% year-on-year increase in sales, boosted by expansion in store numbers and the entry into new markets.

FIGURE 109: Mango Group: Group financial performance, 2004-08

Year to December
2004
2005
2006
2007
2008  






Sales €m (excl. sales tax):





Mango Group
1,055
1,108
1,257
1,333
1,440
Mango International
779
829
955
1,013
1,109
Mango Spain
276
279
302
320
331






Group sales £m (excl. sales tax)
716
758
857
913
1,147


SOURCE: Company Accounts and Financial Reports/Mintel

UK performance
              Mango has not been particularly successful in the UK market in recent years, but there seems to have been an upturn in 2008, with sales rising by 10.9% year-on-year, although this appears to have been largely due to expansion in store numbers.
              The company also made an operating profit in the UK for the first time since 2002.
              Mango has recently disclosed that the UK was among the markets where it was seeing like-for-like sales declines in early 2009 as a result of the worsening economic climate.
              However, the brand has expanded strongly in the UK over the last year, with standalone stores as well as concessions at House of Fraser and Fenwick stores, so its turnover in the UK should continue to rise in 2009.

FIGURE 110: Mango UK Ltd: financial performance, 2004-08

(£m)
Latest year-end: December 2008
2004
2005
2006
2007
2008






Sales (excl. VAT)
26.7
26.4
24.8
23.8
26.4






Operating profit
-2.1
-3.0
-3.0
-0.2
1.2
Operating margin (%)
-7.9
-11.4
-12.1
-0.8
4.5


SOURCE: Company Accounts and Annual Report/Mintel

Store portfolio
              There has been a decline in sales per outlet for the group as a whole over the last five years, which can be attributed to a fall in the average store size.
              However, the fall in sales per m² suggests that space has also been used less efficiently in recent years.
              Franchising has been a popular method for Mango’s international expansion, particularly in the emerging markets of Asia and Eastern Europe where the company can tap into local knowledge.
              Mango stores are in prime locations, either in shopping centres or in city centres.

FIGURE 111: Mango Group: Outlet data, 2004-08

Year to December
2004
2005
2006
2007
2008 (e)






Outlet numbers:





Mango Group
768
868
995
1,094
1,229
Mango International
540
628
743
839
948
Including:





Mango UK
21
22
20
20
28
Mango Spain
228
240
252
255
281






Estimated sales area (000m²) :
240
265
298
321
361






Sales per outlet (€000):





Mango Group
1,433
1,355
1,349
1,276
1,240
Mango International
2,233
2,075
1,393
1,281
1,241
Including:





Mango UK (£000)
1,483
1,228
1,181
1,190
1,100
Mango Spain
1,249
1,192
1,228
1,262
1,235






Estimated sales per m² (€):





Mango Group
4,580
4,388
4,465
4,307
4,223


SOURCE: Company Accounts and Financial Reports/Mintel

              Mango’s expansion in the UK has continued in 2009. As at September, the company operated 42 outlets.
              The company has rolled out concessions in a number of House of Fraser stores and in September 2009 opened concessions in two Fenwick department stores.

New fascias

              The company launched two new fascias in 2008, perhaps indicating that there is limited room to grow with the Mango fascia in some markets.
              ‘HE by Mango’ is a fascia entirely devoted to Mango’s new menswear range. The first outlet was opened in Barcelona in 2008.
              Mango Touch is a mini-boutique featuring accessories such as bags, footwear and jewellery.
              The company has also hinted that it might launch a young fashion chain in the future.
              Mango has not given any indication on whether the UK market will see any new fascias introduced.

Retail offering
Market positioning
              Mango targets fashion conscious females aged between 18-30.
              Youthfulness is important to the brand and the offer is generally less focused on formalwear and more on casualwear than fellow Spanish brand Zara.
              However, Mango has also tried to broaden its appeal outside these age groups, it has for instance used former super model Lauren in an ad campaign to draw in an older (but still fashionable) demographic.
              The appeal of its offer has also been broadened by offering more aspirational ranges (eg capsule collections by designers) as well as the new affordable Think Up range.

Brands
Womenswear

              All womenswear is branded as MNG, with some articles sub-branded as MNG Basics and MNG Jeans.
              The brand has launched limited edition collections in collaboration with celebrities and designers such as Penelope Cruz and Osman Yousefzada.
              The latest limited edition collection has been put together by young North American fashion designer Adam Lippes. His collections were for Spring and Autumn 2009 and featured womenswear as well as menswear.
              The limited edition collections are more priced towards the premium end and are not available at every store.
              Celebrities are also used to showcase the brand’s regular collection, eg. the Autumn/Winter collection in 2009 was modelled by actress Scarlett Johansson.

Menswear

              The HE (Homini Emerito) by Mango range was first launched in 2008, but the company has disclosed that it already accounts for 10% of its total turnover.
              The collection features trend-led smart/casual menswear positioned at the upper end of the mainstream market.
              The 2009 Autumn/Winter collection was modelled by British actor Max Irons.

Product offer
              Mango’s core offer is still womenswear, ranging from coats, shirts and dresses to knits, jeans and trousers as well as lingerie.
              The menswear range consists of jeans, trousers, shirts, jackets, suits as well as accessories such as sunglasses, footwear and belts.
              Mango Touch accessories stores feature items such as handbags, jewellery, sunglasses, hats, scarves, footwear and belts.
              While there no Mango Touch standalone stores in the UK, Touch-branded accessories are for sale in the regular Mango stores.

Pricing
              Mango’s pricing sits fairly mid-market, with some more premium pricing for items from its limited edition collection.
              Jeans are from €37, cardigans from around €25 and skirts start at €39.
              Limited edition items start at €50. Evening dresses are from €219, shirts are €59.
              The Think Up range has t-shirts from as low as €5, coats from €35 and trousers starting at €22.

Advertising and marketing
              Mango attempts to emulate luxury brands through its advertising.
              The company’s ad campaigns have featured well-known celebrities including Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Lizzy Jagger.
              Scarlett Johansson features as the face of the brand for the Autumn/Winter 2009 season.

e-commerce and home shopping
              Mango has operated a transactional website since 2000.
              It has continued to expand and currently serves 32 countries in Europe, including the UK, as well as the US and Canada. In 2009, Mango plans to open a transactional website in China.

              According to press reports, the company saw its online turnover reach €8 million in 2008, an increase of 35% on the previous year.

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