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Thursday 24 April 2014

Future Opportunities Clothing Retailing UK

Clothing Retailing - UK - 

Future Opportunities


Trading down but what next?
The Mintel Inspire trend ‘Smart Shopping Gets Smarter’ is about interconnection and uncertainty. The advancements of the internet have empowered consumers with choice, whilst the economic climate has demanded that they wise up and become competitive in seeking out the best deals.

Mintel’s exclusive consumer research shows that the 25-54s are not only the most likely to have traded down in the recession, but that many have traded down to the lowest common denominator – the value retailers. But what can those retailers do to hold on to new and old customers alike?

              A good starting point would be to establish whether there is anything customers particularly like about the store and product offer other than ultra low prices. For instance, TK Maxx is one of few value fashion retailers that attracts equal numbers of men and women. Is there something about the ‘no frills’/warehouse merchandising style that particularly appeals to men, or does TK Maxx just have a better menswear offer? Certainly, there is scope for other value retailers to up their game in menswear.
              Spain’s Grupo Cortefiel has recently launched a range of ‘comfort clothing’ at its Springfield chain aimed at hard up young people who are going out less. Could value retailers tap into the same trend in the UK, particularly given rising numbers of unemployed? Pyjamas have already made something of a comeback as loungewear according to some retailers, but this could be developed further.
              Cocooning indoors can create demand in other segments too – notably lingerie, which at the top end of the market Agent Provocateur was alive to from the start.
              Should value retailers start to court longer term consumerism by rewarding repeat buying over a stretched period of time? For instance spend an average of x per month and get a discount on everything bought over the course of a year.
              People tend to mostly buy clothing when they need something or when they see something they like. Planned spending is typically less common. But this makes it difficult for consumers to budget. Promoting the idea of spreading payments for something you know you will need eg. school uniforms or a wedding dress would be particularly helpful for hard pressed families and a year long purchase plan could work well for instance.
              Agency mail order worked on similar principles but, when credit became so widely available, this industry went into long term decline. But consumers struggling to manage their finances might appreciate better mapped out forms of credit, especially in the current climate of uncertainty and restricted credit availability.
              However, there would have to be an implied guarantee of the best price at the right time. This way the less affluent customers could get what they need when they really need it, rather than spending large amount of money to capitalise on Sale periods.
              Should value retailers be doing more through the internet? Researching online helps to drive footfall to the high street. But, for example, it also allows people to try on garments at home – older and larger sized shoppers may prefer this.
              They may also be more inclined to experiment with new styles when they can do so in the comfort of their own home. Moreover, they can see how a new purchase works with the rest of the wardrobe and thereby helping to identify if it’s value for money.
              Value retailers can not afford to let the supermarkets gain a competitive advantage in e-commerce. But finding a way to trade profitably online is tough with a low price/low cost business model. Perhaps they should eschew home delivery, particularly as free delivery and free returns are gaining traction in the mainstream. Instead, they could focus on a free ‘click and collect in store’ service to contain costs for themselves and their customers.
              A community facility online would allow like-minded consumers to share shopping and wider budgeting advice and tips. Wal-Mart is already moving in this direction in the US with its Elevenmoms social network.

The middle market must fight back
Mintel’s ‘Trust in Me’ trend highlights that trust and relationship really belong to the same family. So increasingly as consumers we will be weighing up each interaction with a brand or service in those terms. Which will we invite further into our lives, and which will be refrain from forming a relationship with?

Sales through the big mid-market fashion names like M&S, Next and Debenhams have been squeezed by the success of the value retailers. To an extent, we believe they have been prepared to sacrifice market share to protect profits and investment potential. But what can these retailers now do to rebuild relationships and re-ignite interest and loyalty to dovetail with the upturn, albeit an upturn that will be slow and fragile?

              John Lewis recently announced plans for a value range starting in homewares but to be expanded into fashion basics next year. There is the risk of undermining the Never Knowingly Undersold policy and the John Lewis brand itself and there might be better ways to emphasise value.
              On the other hand, perhaps it can draw from the experience of sister chain Waitrose and its success with the Essentials value brand. Moreover, it might just work as a reason for tentative customers to return and at a time when some could be tempted to trade up selectively too.
              John Lewis will certainly shake things up by shifting perceptions about offering cut-price products to a different kind of audience. Could M&S do something similar? It has developed some compelling private labels. But there is no dedicated entry price brand in fashion, although it does have a value range in home textiles.
              The mid-market players could also do more to help people find their own unique sense of style and dress as, according to Mintel research, one in three online shoppers have no clear idea of what they are logging on for when they embark on a potential shopping spree.
              Their audience is less likely to fear being different than young fashionistas. Indeed, there is a growing movement towards individuality as the internet opens up a more global and less seasonal marketplace.
              Moreover, that desire for individuality is gathering pace as consumers start to tire of the ubiquitous fashion looks that value retailers inevitably promulgate. People are much more likely to buy something spontaneously if they really like it and if they think they are unable to find it elsewhere.
              John Lewis’ online fashion relaunch and M&S’ web store are starting to move in the right direction. But most mid-market sites still have some way to go before decoding the latest trends and selling stock in an integrated and easy-to-use way, something that Net-a-Porter does so effectively at the luxury end.
              Conversely, we believe that as consumers’ expectations rise, a bad online experience will increasingly affect loyalty, not just to the web store but to the brand’s high street stores as well. So, retailers must continue investing not just in the virtual shop but the online experience as a whole, in order to nurture long term relationships.


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